patzcuaro is one of my favorite places-- so lively yet tranquil. ah, i heard of cha cha cha from several folks but missed this. another place near the basilica i recommend to see is el boiler cafe. they serve excellent coffee and chocolate in a little library, and occasionally screen films in an adjoining room. i also recommend the sopa tarasca at gran hotel. in the same plaza (getrudis bocanegra), look for maria elena, who sells home-baked whole wheat/corn cookies, muffins and pays de queso. she arrives around 4pm with her vendor push cart ("pan integral"). her baked goods are substantial and not too sweet-- often it was my breakfast. and then there's the purepecha women selling their excellent gorditas, and the atole negro, and nieve in local fruit flavors ... oh my appetite is firing up again just thinking about this place...